“Thoughts and observations on Ghana’s religious equilibrium.”
A while back I had the chance to visit the beautiful West African country of Ghana. Independent since 1952 it was the first colony to shake off Great Britain’s imperial rule. Who closely followed the World Championship might have noticed that the “Black Stars” (Ghanas national football team; have a look on the Ghana’s flag if you like to know where the names comes from) are praying a lot. If would have been to Ghana during the Championship you would have noticed that regularly radio show hosts called on their listeners to pray for the victory of their team. You would have further noticed that this call was not directed on one special religious group but asked Muslims and Christians and other orientations alike. Does this tell us something about the country as a whole? Well in a time when religion- and especially Islam- is highly politicized Ghana is an refreshing counterexample. While in New York there is much discussion whether a Mosque can be opened near Ground Zero, a right wing party in the Netherlands can end up third in national elections with the single issue Islam, Switzerland bans Minarets and two of the most read German authors when it comes the the question of how Islam is going to fit in the societies of the west are Udo Ulfkotte and Hendryk M. Broder you can not evade to ask why? Does religion have to be so totally shape the mindsets of political thinking? Especially Islam has a hard time to be treated with dignity. Personally I admire Fareed Zakaria when he gives back his price to the Anti Defamation League (ADL). By their statements the ADL has done the job of those that link it to right wing Israeli politicians and do not believe in it non- partisan stand that is supposed to protect all minorities from defamation (The Central Council of the Jews [in Germany] is doing a much better job when siding with the Muslim community on a regular basis). The west has a severe problem to live up to its own principles when it comes to Islam and that is sad.
When you travel in Ghana you will find very different circumstance that might be surprising especially when you know that neighboring countries with similar religious settings face sever problems (think: Ivory Coast). As in other countries in West Africa Ghana is divided in a predominantly Islamic north and and a south (coast line) that is dominated by Christians. In both parts of the country you can find big populations of the respective other. The “Clash of Civilizations” post- 9/11 etc. mindset makes us expect a country that has harsh problems with religions that compete with each other and riots occurring all the time. We expect young radicals bombing girl schools, militias routing villages that are inhibited by the other religious group and all kinds of inter- religious clashes maybe even a civil war that divides the country along religious lines. You will find nothing like that.
Why is that so? What does religion look like in Ghana? If you arrive in Accra you will immediately notice the vast numbers of Neo- Christian churches all over town. You will also learn about the habit to give shops and companies strange sounding names like: “Jesus the Name of the Lord Building Materials”. Christianity in Ghana is overall extremely pluralistic and the choice of your believe and the kind of believe is predominantly seen as personal business and choice. In the northern town of Tamale you will not only find a methodist and baptist church but also a catholic cathedral. The towns center is dominated by a big Mosque but still you will not hear of any inter- religious problems.
When you speak to the people in the country you will stumble over opinions that do not remotely fit into the normal perceptions of religious people and the neo- medieval perception of Islam. Not only that woman of course have to work and that people accept that western tourists dress strange, the woman/man you are going to marry does not even have to be a Muslim/ Christian herself, because “the religion does not command that”. A lot of people do not even distinguish between Islam and Christianity which they consider pretty much the same. They describe themselves as “religious”. The anti- conservatism goes even further: Muslim here do not necessarily distinguish between Suna and Shia. Somehow this country is the religious winter wonderland.
So is Islam only acceptable when it is deprived of defining elements? Well not at all but is makes you wonder why neither Christians nor Muslims claim universal righteousness. Religious peace within a totally religious environment: fascinating. But still the shock waves of international politics can be sensed in Ghana as well. The Islam is Northern Ghana might change. There is tension between the practiced religion of the people and the teachings of some Mullahs. The influence of the Saudi financed Wahhabism might be present as well. Some of the Mosques financed by Arabian oil money try to shift the religious discourse. And people will tell you that their subjection under religious rules has “purified” over the last ten or so years. Another danger to the equilibrium might arise from the evangelical pastors that are present and nurse more and more followers. What if the turn from peace and love encouraging happy faces to fanatics that more resemble the Pat Robertsons of this world?
Currently you can find kind of a religious wonderland in Ghana but what will happen if this does change? One argumentation why the religious cleavage in other countries in West Africa has been politicized is that religion is only a cover for underlying economic grievances. But a development divide can also be found in Ghana, the north is underdeveloped and falls behind the south economically. The potential for conflict is embedded in the structure of the country. Another argument is build on the notion of traditional African tolerance when it comes to religious issues. At the moment this is what you can observe in Ghana, the question is how long the country will be able to remain uninfluenced by international politics. Until than Ghana might be a very good example how different religions can live together without killing each other and a remarkable instance of the differences within Islam, far away from the presences of a Broder or Bin Laden.
